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Inspiring Citrus Scents

Santa Maria Novella Zagara

Rose has been a fundamental ingredient in perfumery. However citrus fruits are also coming into the space as orange and lemon colognes have irresistible scents.

Fragrances suffused with citrus are becoming regular feature in perfumery because of their uplifting and rejuvenating aromas. It helps the wearer adapt to numerous moods and occasions.

Perfume houses are coming out with irresistible combination of orange and lemon in their fragrances. Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte is as classical as a beige trench coat and crisp white shirt – a blend of lemon, orange and oakmoss. A bracing, slightly austere fragrance, it instantly energises; the bitterness of the orange zest is softened by musk and cedarwood shavings, while a subtle touch of spice brightens the composition further.

Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte

Hermès Eau d’Orange Verte

Eau d’Orange Verte pairs well with Roger & Gallet’s Bois d’Orange soap. Roger & Gallet has several excellent colognes in its line, including Jean-Marie Farina Extra Vieille. There is also Bois d’Orange, a vignette of woods and peppery citrus. The Bois d’Orange soap is one of those scented marvels that demonstrates the perfumer’s art even in the most quotidian context. Its creamy foam smells of zest and green leaves, with hints of amber and basil that linger on the skin well after the morning shower.

The most popular orange used in colognes is the bitter, or Seville, variety, but many modern compositions rely on sweet orange for a juicy, radiant effect. Acqua di Parma Arancia di Capri adds a whisper of vanilla to its orange cocktail for a teasing gourmand sensation. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, on the other hand, explores the natural sweetness of the fruit and amplifies it with musk to create a long-lasting presence. Both fragrances are reminiscent of crushed citrus peel and freshly squeezed juice – an aroma that feels upbeat and exhilarating.

Acqua di Parma Arancia di Capri

Acqua di Parma Arancia di Capri

Another part of the orange tree that finds its way into colognes is the flowers. Bitter orange blossoms are especially rich in essential oils, which can be extracted either with volatile solvents, resulting in orange blossom absolute, or steam-distilled to make neroli essence. The former is warm, jasmine-like, with a sweet grape note, while neroli is green and spicy. Zagara from Santa Maria Novella, one of the oldest Italian pharmacies, uses the two essences for a complex effect, while Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier counts on the green verve of neroli to make its musky woods radiant. The orange flowers form the main structure of these perfumes and offer a suave complement to the sharp citrus notes.